Fun in the snow

December 31, 2015

Apparently, Istanbul gets snow several times a year. I haven't seen snow plows, but the cars seem to go up and down the narrow streets to turn a lot of it into slush. And people do clear their sidewalks. Sand or salt would help a lot, though. The sidewalks are ceramic tile, so they're very slippery. This morning, after breakfast, I walked to the market to buy some fruit and yogurt. I found the market just fine, but got totally lost coming back. Things look very different in the snow than they do in the summer. It was kind of good to walk around the neighborhood. Everyone was having fun in the snow. Some boys were building a fort. It was cute - with Turkish flags. I asked to take their photo. Then they offered to take mine. 

There were two Turkish girls having a snowball fight. 

Then I found my way back to the hotel, left the food and headed to Topkapi. The last time I was here was in May. It was raining and I froze. This time, despite the fact that snow continued to fall all day, I was at least dressed warmly and wasn't too cold. The palace was crowded, but I skipped the first rooms since we saw them last time and went to other rooms further in. They were less crowded. I think people usually start in the first rooms, then when there's too much to see in a day, they skip the others. That's what we did last time. Today, I saw some things that reminded me of the Jerusalem sights. They have Moses' staff. (Isn't it wonderful he left it?  I wonder if it will still part the Dead Sea. )  They also have Mohammed's footprint and a lock of his beard. I definitely think Mohammed wouldn't approve of that. I took a photo of the lock of his beard, but I hadnt realized you're not allowed to take photos in those rooms, so I deleted it. They also have some beautiful jewel encrusted swords and guns. There's even a ceremonial coat of armore. There are also many paintings of the sultans. 

After a while, I was started to get cold and it was around 2:30, so I decided to leave and get lunch. 

I passed a Turkish snowman and got a selfie with him. 

Then I went to a restaurant where they gave me a seat by the fire. And had a delicious lunch of roasted eggplant and lamb with hot spiced wine at Rumeli Cafe. (I saved their card because I liked the place so much). A British couple came in and sat at a table by me, so I was talking to them for a while. Then it was getting late and I was getting tired, so I headed back to the hotel. 

Turkish Airlines and Snowy Istanbul

December 29, 2015

Martha picked me up. We went for dinner and then she took me to the airport. I got to the airport at a time that I thought was early - 7:30 for a flight that leaves at 11:10, but there was already a long line at the Turkish Airlines desk. They had about five people working, so it did move fairly quickly. On this flight, you can't print your boarding pass in advance. You have to go to the desk and show your passport. (No one was interested in seeing my electronic ticket.). Later, at the gate, they announced that anyone who had arrived on a domestic flight connecting to the flight to Istanbul, needed to check in with them at the gate, show their passport, and be issued a new boarding pass. When I went through security, there was a woman in front of me in a burqa. The man who checks passports and boarding passes said he would have to call a woman to look at her face. He called on the phone and someone came fairly quickly. Also, when we were boarding the plane, there was a woman checking passports and boarding passes, and she made the woman in the burqa open the face mask so she could see. 

I've taken Turkish Airlines several times, but I never remember the routine, so this time I will write it down. Shortly after takeoff they brought a hot, wet washcloth. Then they came around with menus. Here's what's on the menu. Dinner is: roasted red pepper salad with olives, chicken Caesar salad, choice of salmon with ratatouille and saffron rice or Turkish minced beef with vegetables and buttered rice, and toffee brownie. You can have a sandwich any time during the night. Before landing, there will be fruit, cheese and scrambled eggs with spinach, grilled tomato and potatoes. Drink choices are whiskey, gin, vodka, raki, red or white wine, beer, sodas, juices, fresh lemonade with mint, coffee or tea. Isn't Turkish Airlines wonderful?

On our seats, there were pillows and blankets. After bringing the menus, they brought little cases with slippers and sleep masks.  I actually managed to sleep a few hours this time. 

Our flight arrived almost an hour early. I went to the ATM, and it was all in Turkish. I asked the people who used the machine before me for help. They had some English and could show me what to do. I actually think they were Germans. The machine had a choice of dollars, euros or Turkish lira. It would probably would have been better to take euros. Then, if I didn't use them in Turkey, I could probably use them in Lebanon, but I had calculated how much money I needed in TL and it would have taken me some time to figure out how many euros I needed. Everyone here tends to give prices in euros. I guess because there are so many European tourists. 

When I got my bag and went out the airport exit, I didn't see my airport pickup with my name. There were MANY names to look at. Some were written in Arabic. I called the hotel and they said they would call my driver. Then I found my name. I think the hotel just hires a service. One man waits for everyone from many hotels and then assigns them to drivers. I think the driver was disappointed that I was only one person. There was plenty of room in the van. I don't know why they didn't add others for nearby hotels. It takes about 30 minutes to get to the hotel from the airport. When we got close to the hotel, it made me happy to see the familiar streets that we walked down many times last May. When I arrived at the hotel, the night guy said that he didn't need to see my passport because I have stayed here before. He didn't want any money yet, either. I'm really tired and I don't feel like going out in the cold and dark. I decided to just eat a protein bar for dinner and go up on the roof for a bottle of water. They keep drinks in a refrigerator up there. You just take what you want and write it on the pad. They add it to your bill at the end. 

I forgot to mention the weather. There was some snow coming down as we were driving from the airport. It's sticking on grassy surfaces, but the streets are just slushy. The hotel guy said they expect more snow tomorrow. I'll ask Harun more about it tomorrow. His English is much better. 

That's about it. Here is a photo from my balcony window. 

Going home

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

We went to bed at 9:00 last night and I actually slept at least four hours. We got up at 3:15 to be ready for the taxi that was picking us up at 4:00. The hotel was supposed to provide a bag breakfast. All they had was a pot of coffee and water, but both were cold, and some pieces of cake. We didn't complain since the happy hour was so good. The taxi driver was early. When we went downstairs, I couldn't get the door to open. The driver had to show me to press a special button. There's a lot of security,at this hotel. There's a lot of military and a hospital there. Cars have to go through a gate where they raise the barrier for each car. 

The driver this morning was the same driver we had yesterday, but we couldn't fit all of us plus our luggage in his car. They should have known that in advance. If we're going to the airport, of course we have luggage. He had to call a second taxi. It came fairly quickly and was a normal size taxi. (The other car, which we used yesterday to go to Jaffa, was an SUV.). 

Joanne and I went in the smaller car. This driver was older and spoke much more English. He was very chatty. He told us that his father moved to Israel in 1948 from Tunis. He asked where we were going and the said that's good because there were missiles fired into the south from Gaza this morning. He said if there's war, they won't make any money this year. So, then why did he want to tell us about it?  When I looked it up on the internet later, I saw that there were no injuries and it happens about once a month. 

When we got to the airport, we had to wait on a very slow moving line for someone to ask us questions. The one guy seemed to be new and he took forever. He kept going over to his supervisor to ask questions. Finally, I got called over by another guy who just asked me the typical airport questions. Did you pack your own bag? Has anyone given you anything? Etc. The college had warned us that we might be asked where we had been in Israel or if they asked where we stayed, they might then ask where St George's is to be sure we're telling the truth. Going through security with our carry-on was also painfully slow. In the US, they try to have you get through quickly. Here, they seem to be trying to make it slow. They were just chatting with each other and making us wait. Anyway, it was just a two-hour flight to Istanbul, but Turkish Airlines gave us a full breakfast. 

Istanbul Airport is huge Nd definitely not my favorite airport - very confusing. We had a three-hour layover, so we shopped in the duty-free shops. I got some Turkish delight and Raki. When it was time to go to the gate (you can't go early), there was a long line. There were two flights at adjacent gates-one to San Francisco and one to Washington. We had to talk to someone who asked the same questions as in Israel. I did hear her ask someone else what was the purpose of their trip to the US. Then someone else took my passport and looked some things up on the computer. Finally, we took our bus to the plane. It was cold and raining. Still, Turkish Airlines is so wonderful. Before the plane takes off, they bring you a piece of Turkish Delight. Then, once in the air, you get a hot, wet towel. And then lunch - salad with goat cheese, choice of chicken or salmon, hummus and tomato sauce, veggies, hot bread and nougat mousse -- delish. I had red wine with my dinner. Then, after dinner, they asked if we wanted tea or coffee. Joanne had tea. I asked for a glass of Raki. They asked if I wanted it mixed with water - which I did - but they poured a full glass and then warned me that it's strong!  If I've got to do a long flight, I might as well liquor up, especially since it's free. They came after a while and brought everyone a bottle of water. We can have sour cherry cake at any time during the flight. And there is Another meal right before landing.
When we landed at Dulles (about 7:30 EDT - 2:30 AM for my body clock), I was feeling very tired and spacey.  Fortunately, we had arranged to take the airport shuttle, so we just had to get out luggage, go through customs and the shuttle was waiting.  He drove us back to church.  My car was there and started just fine.
I had set the thermostat at 85 degrees, so the house was hot when I got home.  I now know that it takes much longer for the AC to lower the temperature in the house than it takes for the heat to raise it.  Oh, well.  Anyway, adjusting to the time change in this direction is much easier than going the other way.
Great trip.  Happy to be home.

Tel Aviv

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

We took a van to Tel Aviv this morning. The hotel is great. They brought out lemonade for us and they're very helpful. The rooms are nice too. We got ourselves organized and then asked them to call us a taxi to go to Jaffa - the old city. They got a large taxi so all six of us could go at once. We asked him to come back for us at 5:00. That made everything easy. We had lunch and then just wandered around. We went in some old markets. Most of the shopkeepers wear yarmulkas here. 

The hotel has complimentary happy hour at 5:00 - 7:30. So when we got back, we went there. There was unlimited wine, little sandwiches, cheese, etc. At the end, they brought out baklava. So that was free dinner 

We have to get up at 3:15 for our trip to the airport. The hotel provides transportation. We are supposed to get in at Dulles at 6:10 tomorrow evening. 

Last day in the holy land

Monday, May 25, 2015

Today was the last day of the course. Our bus took us out to Emmaus. There's a crusader churc there - actually the ruins of one. We set plastic chairs in a circle and had Eucharist. Then we drove to Caesaria Marítima. The cita was Founder by The Phoenicians, but then Herod bult a complete city there. There are many ruins. It's also a nice place to go swimming. I didn't bring my bathing suit, but I waded into the water to about mid-thigh. We spent the whole afternoon there. 

It's about a 2 hour drive back. We arrived at the college at around five. That gave us some time to pack. I've bought quite a lot of stuff here, including a coffee set and some Armenian dishes. I put all the things in my bag and it looked pretty full. However, I was able to get my clothes in. I think I'll be okay. At 6:30, we went up to the roof with a bottle of wine. Everyone was there. It was nice to have a last evening together. 

We also went over to the guesthouse after dinner for another bottle of wine. Paul came, too. Some people are leaving for the airport during the night, but most of us will be here for breakfast. We are taking a van to Tel a Aviv at 10:30 tomorrow morning. Alain has given us some ideas for what to do there tomorrow. 

Via Dolorosa and pool off Bethesda

Sunday, May 24, 2015

This morning we got up early and walked the way of the cross. The market looks very different early in the morning. It's much calmer. It was nice. People took turns reading at the stations. We also had a wooden cross that we carried. I didn't take any photos because it was very serious. 

Today is Pentecost. There was a very big celebration at the cathedral. They had only one service at 11:00. People came in from other cities to be at the service. There were about 10 priests, a bishop and the archbishop celebrating the service. 

Then in the afternoon, we went to the garden and pool of Bethesda. It was okay - not really worth the trip. 

This evening, they gave us our certificates, a Saint George's tile, and some other things. Then dinner and then we went up on the roof to talk. I'm really tired. Tomorrow is our last day in Jerusalem. We leave early Tuesday for Tel Aviv. Then on Wednesday we fly home. 

Holy Week places

Saturday, May 23, 2015

This morning we drove to the Mount of Olives. (We always have the same bus driver - Abed - who is amazing at driving that bus down narrow streets.). First we went to the Chapel of the Ascension. We were the first group to arrive there. A man came and opened the gate. Then he went inside the chapel and brought out a cart with things for sale. The chapel is at the highest point in Jerusalem. At one time it was open with just a small rail around it. In the center there is what they say is the footprint of Jesus. When it was open, you could contemplate the sky and Jesus's ascension. A few minutes after we got there, other groups came, too. The chapel is quite small and can't fit more than our group. We read a bible passage about the ascension. Rodney had to keep telling the new group to wait a minute for us to come out. In the outer area, there's an open space with a large wall around it. There are hooks on it and Rodney said that churches come there and hang things for their services. There is also an altar area. 

Next, we went down the road a little to the Pater Noster. It's a sacred cave. This is where Jesus did a lot of teaching to his disciples. Because we know that one of the things Jesus taught his disciples is the Lord's Prayer, the church and grounds (run by French Carmelite nuns) has tiles with the Lord's Prayer in many languages.

Our third place to visit this morning, was Bethpage. As we drove, Rodney was telling us that the road we were on would have huge Palm Sunday processions. The neighborhood is mostly Muslims and they all come out and take pictures of the pilgrims walking the road as the pilgrims are taking photos of the neighbors. He said it's a very warm, friendly feeling with all the people. We arrived (by bus) at the Church of Bethphage, where the Palm Sunday processions begin. It is said that this where Jesus sent his disciples to get a donkey for him. The church has a painting of Jesus riding on a donkey into Jerusalem. Reed read the story from Mark. Then we sang All Glory, Laud and Honor. 

The next location was the Church of Dominus Flevit (Jeusu wept). This is the location where Jeusu looked out over Jerusalem and wept. We continue on down the hill from there to the Garden of Gethsamani. There are some huge ancient (a few hundred years old) olive trees there. Gethsamani means olive press. From the garden, you can easily see the wall of the temple (now destroyed, but you see the retaining wall today). There was a Catholic mass going on inside the church.  

Across the street, is Mary's tomb. The story is that she lay down on the Mount of Olives and died. Then the disciples carried her down to where her tomb is. You have to go down many steps to get there. Then you're in a basement type area with another little area that you stoop to go through the archway and Mary's tomb is in there. There are lots of candles on top. I guess you can buy one to put it there. While I was I there, a priest came and blew out about half of them and took them away. 

We returned to the college for lunch and then went to the place where some people think the Last Supper took place. Jon, Annette, Debbie, Joanne and I were there on Wednesdat and we were practically the only ones there. Today the place was packed with lots of different church groups.  Both the Last Supper and Pentecost are believed to have happened in this area. It felt very exciting today - on the day before our Pentecost - to hear many groups speaking in many languages. 

The bus then drove us to the Church of St Peter in Gallicantu. This is at the site of the House of Caiaphas. The church is in commemoration of St Peter's rejection of Jesus. 

There are caves under the church that many believe may have been placed under the home of Caiaphas where Jesus and his disciples were imprisoned. We read psalm 88 in one of the crypts. We had copies of it for all of us, but there was a lectern in there with a book that had psalm 88 in different languages in it. 

The tomb of Lazarus and a trip for shoes

Friday, May 22, 2015

This morning we heard a lecture on Orthodox Judaism. The woman was very knowledgable and interesting. Afterwards we went to Bethany to see the tomb of Lazarus. You go down a lot of steps into a first room where they would prepare the body. Then you go through a narrow passage to another room with niches where they would have put bodies. 

 

There is a crusader church above the tomb. 

Then we went back to the college for lunch. We had a free afternoon, so we walked to a little mall. It's clearly where affluent Israelis shop. Some of the others were looking for Tevas. We didn't find them, but we found Naod. Several people bought a pair of sandals. Then we continued on up the street to see the YMCA. It's quite unique. I thought it was a cathedral. It's a big beautiful building. It also has a Peace Preschool in it. For 20 shekels, you can go to the top of the bell tower and get a 360 degree view of Jerusalem. 

Afterwards, we wanted to get a drink at the King David Hotel across the street, but they were very crowded and said we couldn't have a table because we weren't staying there. So we went back to the little shopping center and had a drink there. 

Friday night is Shabbat. Peter said he was going to the Western Wall and there was a group of us who wanted to go with them. They had gone last Friday right after dinner, but this time they wanted to go to compline first. So, we left at 8:30. It was actually a little late. As we were walking there, there were crowds of men in black hats coming there other way. It was actually difficult to get down the street because so many people were coming in the opposite direction. At one point a group of young guys were singing and dancing down the road. Once we got to the wall, it was a lot less exciting. We went to the women's side. The guys to the other side. Some women were touching the wall. Others were sitting in chairs reading or talking. One woman passed her two children over the separation barrier to her husband. On the other side p, some men were singing.  We stayed about 20 minutes and then walked back and went to a hotel for a drink. There were some things they won't serve because it's Shabbat. They are starred on the menu. You can have coffee, but not espresso. You can have tuna sandwich, but not grilled cheese. I had a glass of red wine. Great night.  

The Western Wall and Temple Mount

Thursday, May 21, 2015

This morning, we went up on the Temple Mount. At one time, there was a Jewish temple there. Then it was destroyed by the Romans. When the Byzantine Christians were in control of the city, they had no interest in that area so it just became a trash dump. The Byzantines focused on the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, built on what's is believed to. E the site of the crucifixion. When the Umayyids (Muslims) took over, they build the Al Aqsa mosque on the site. The Western Wall, where Jews worship, is the retaining wall for the mount. The head rabbi in Jerusalem has forbidden Jews to go on the Temple Mount because they believe it's sacred ground where the temple stood, but they don't know where that is exactly. So, there is no way to purify yourself before going there and no way to know where the exact sacred ground is. However, other rabbis want to have Jews go up there and the Knesset has discussed dividing the space. More and more Jews are going up there. We had to wait on line for a long time to go through security. It turned out the scanning machine wasn't working, so they had to check each bag by hand. When we got up there, a man stopped me and said to take my scarf and cover my shoulders and chest. No problem.  It's pretty calm and peaceful on the mount and not crowded. However, because more and more Jews keep coming up there, groups of Muslim women stay at the top and chant prayers in order to hold onto the space. 

After that, we had to go through security again to go to the Western Wall. There are two sides - a men's and a women's. We brought our little papers that the church had given us with prayers to put in the wall. Apparently, the government takes the papers out when they get too full and burns them on the mount of olives. On Mondays and Thursday's, there are many bar mitzvahs. Women stand on chairs from the women's side and throw candy on the newly bar mitzvahed boy. Also there are many celebrations along the streets for bar mitzvahs. 

Then we went to a museum that shows some archeological things and a film about the Jewish history of the Temple Mount. 

We then walked over to the Armenian quarter and had lunch at a Lutheran guest house. The guest house is in the middle of the old city, so we shopped for a while and then went to the Cathedral of Saint James (Armenian) for vespers. We waited about 15 minutes until someone came out and told us it was this Ascension Day and there would be no vespers. So we shopped in an Armenian ceramic shop across the street. Rodney took us over to the shop and introduced us to the owner. He lets us go in the back to see how everything is made. We also bought quite a bit of stuff. He gave us a discount because we were from Saint George's. 

We got back to the college by 5;00 because we were supposed to have a lecture by Dean Hussam Naoum on Indigenous Christianity in the Holy Land, but he had an emergency and it was cancelled. We went up on the roof for a few glasses of wine dinner instead. 

Princess Basma Center for Rehab And free time in the Old City

This morning , we went to visit the Princess Basma Center for Rehabilitation. The Diocese of Jerusalem helps support this center. They take kids with physical disabilities as well as kids with autism. The kids stay here with their moms for 3 weeks. It's intended to empower the moms to do what to do for their children and also how to advocate for their children in the schools. It was a very center. We all were very impressed. 

Then we came to the college. Joanne and I went down the street and shopped a little. I bought a skirt. It would be cooler to wear here, but I don't have a blouse to go with it. Then we had lunch at the college. After lunch, we had free time. Joanne and I decided we wanted to see King David's City. Annette, Debbie and Jon decided to come with us. We thought we needed to go through the souk. We wanted to go in through the Damascas Gate and then go back to n a straight to the other side and come out the Dung Gate. Well,me took the wrong road to the souk and ended up at the Herod Gate. We went in that way, but got very lost. It took us two hours to get to the other side. (People also did some shopping along the way). Finally, we came out the other side, in the Jewish quarter. We stopped at a cafe and had a drink to keep our energy up. Then we walked around and came to King David's tomb. We also came across the room of the last supper. (I'm doubtful that anyone has any idea where either of these things actually are.). 

We started walking no back at 4:00, but found the direct route out and got back in only half an hour.  That left a little time to take a shower since we were very sweaty. Rodney gave an hour lecture before on the Holy Week scriptures. It was hard to pay attention because I was feeling really tired. A couple other people didn't come or fell asleep in the lecture. (The room was dark because he had slides and there was the white noise of the air conditioner.). After dinner, we went to a neighboring hotel with Alain, Peter and Nick to have ice cream. It was a lovely day, but each day is very tiring. 

That's Peter's arm there, stealing some of Alain's ice cream. 

Morning at the monastery, Mount Tabor and back to Jerusalem

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

There are two churches on the  grounds of the Franciscan monastery where we are staying. This morning, after breakfast, Joanne  and I walked down to see them. We had to go through a large metal gate that slides across when you press the button and request that they open the gate - not very quickly. We walked down a tree- lined dirt road. At the end, when we came to the Church of the Loaves and Fishes. There was a locked gate again, but this was a small gate. Someone said that they had seen Brother Mark jump over the gate. We decided that, in that case, we could jump the gate, too. It was nice inside and a little cooler.  I lit a candle for Martha's sister. (1 sheckle - about 25 cents)

The church is right by the Sea of Galilee. In the following photo, I am standing on the side of the church there's a boat like the one we sailed on yesterday. They also have a gift shop. You can buy Holy Land pot holders. Lol. 

After that church, we walked down the road to the Church of Peter's Primacy. It's nice, too. As we were walking back, I was starting to get dizzy from the heat. We sat down a little and drank water. When we got back to the street, there was a gift shop and public rest room ($1 to use it!). I really needed to use the rest room. I also put water on my face and neck. That definitely helped. Then, when I came out, Joanne pointed out that they had fresh orange juice. We both had a cup. Alain carries little packets of rehydration salts - some flavored. He puts them in every bottle of water he drinks. I think I need to get those for my next trip. I have rehydration salts, but they're big packets - for a gallon of water, harder to use. We walked back to our room in the guest house. I took off my shirt and wet my face, neck and chest and let them air dry. Then we packed up to check out. We left our bags in the lobby and all went to the Meditation Room. Brother Mark celebrated Eucharist with us. One of the priests in our group, Mary, tells gospel readings by heart. She tells them with great expression and makes them become fascinating stories. It's nice. Jon Clodfelter led the prayers. 

Then we put our bags back on the bus and headed to the Cathedral of the Transfiguration. It was slightly cooler there because it's higher up and there's a little breeze. We had to get off our bus and get into little vans to take us up the mountain to the church. Each van holds about 12, so it took several vans to take our group. The cathedral is Franciscan. It was built on the ruins of a crusader church. There are windows where you can see the ruins below. You can also look out over the valley. 

And of course there's a gift shop but only for pilgrims. 

We got back to the college at around 5:30. It felt like we were coming home after 3 days away. While we were away, we had turned in our keys and the staff changed sheets and gave our rooms a good cleaning. (Normally, they come in every day to clean and they bring new towels everyb2 or 3 days.)

We had a speaker after tonight: Dr Mustafa Abu Sway. He's a world renowned scholar of Islamic philosophy.