So Many More Places To Go!

How many countries I have been to. Visited Countries Map Maker
Visited 35 UN countries (18.1%) out of 193.
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Tuesday, January 31, 2012

My school

I've taken some pictures of my school and I'll write a little about it.  Alif (American Language Institute in Fez) has classes in both English and Arabic.  The English classes are at night and that's a much bigger program.  The street fills with traffic as Moroccans come to take evening classes.  The Arabic classes are during the day and I would estimate there are fewer than 50 students.  We are at all levels.  Classes are small.  There are 5 students in my class:  two nineteen-year-olds, one twenty-two year old, one twenty-six year old and me.  Classes meet for four hours per day (two hours with each teacher) unless there are fewer than three students.  Then, the number of class hours is reduced.  Almost all the students are American.  We had a Scottish guy living in the villa with us, but he only did a 3-week course, so he has gone home now.  The school property is surrounded by a wall and there is always at least one guard at the entrance.
 Inside the walls, there is the Alif Garden where students can study or eat lunch.  There's a concession where I buy lunch every day.  I alternate between tajine chicken with vegetables and tajine chicken with prunes.  They also sell dishes of beans or lentils.  Of course, everything comes with a basket of delicious Moroccan bread.  Below you can see the garden with a group of my friends eating at the best table (most sun).  Behind them on the left is the concession that sells the food.
And here is a picture of Karim and the ladies who cook.  Karim takes our orders (in English, Arabic or French) and then delivers our food to us.  None of us can figure out how he always remembers who orders what. The concession also sells:  coffee (made in a very fancy expresso machine), tea with mint, fresh fruit juices and all sorts of tempting cakes.  In the second picture, you can see Karim leaving the concession to bring a tajine to someone.


And, lastly, pictures of my class and my teachers.  In the first picture, you can see Kestrel, Pierce and Nicole.  Ozzie, our only guy, is absent.  This is significant because Arabic uses a different word for you and different conjugation for whether you are talking to a girl or a boy.  Ozzie hurt his ankle playing soccer.  He lives in the medina.  You have seen pictures of what the streets are like there in previous postings - extremely narrow and uneven.  No car could possibly go down it and I can't imagine navigating those "streets" on crutches.  So, he had to be brought home on a donkey.  Unfortunately, no one has a photo of it.

This is one of my teachers, Abdelhafid.  Note that he is wearing his winter coat in class.  Although Abdelhafid lives in Ifrane, which is about an hour from Fez and is a ski resort (There is snow on the ground there now.) he says he is from the desert and likes the heat - not the cold.  He has central heating in his house in Ifrane.  Abelhafid is always happy and friendly and he is a natural teacher.  He's also quite a world traveler.  He has lived in the US (studied at JMU) and France.


And here is my other teacher, Sanaa.  She's from Fez and says that people in Fez don't want heat in their homes (although she sometimes wears her coat when teaching, too.)  Sanaa usually dresses especially nice on Fridays - often in a jelaba as you can see here.  She reminds me a little of Mary Gibson - always nicely-dressed with lovely jewelery and very professional at all times.






Saturday, January 28, 2012

Rain and cooking

First, two blog notes: (1) I don't think it's possible to send me an email through this blog, but if you know a way, don't do it.  In order to create the blog, I had to give a gmail address.  I created one, but I don't use it.  It's full of junkmail.  If you want to contact me, send an email to my yahoo address - or post a comment for all to read on the blog. (2) Have you noticed on the right side of the page "my blog list"  The first is Baby Violet's blog.  Her mom is my friend, Lemore.  Violet is so precocious that she started a blog before she even starts walking.  The other two belong to friends who live/lived in this house.  Peter, was here for 3 weeks.  He is an undergrad student originally from NY.  He's traveling with his parents now and then will go to Jordan.  I'm anxious to hear what he says about studying in Jordan.  Nimra is a graduate student planning to go to law school.  She's from Pennsylvania and will be here in Fez till May.  So, anyway, if you want to read someone else's take on life in Fez, read their blogs.  They're very different from mine.
Now to what's been happening since I last wrote:
Last night we made onion bread and Moroccan soup.  Leila, the woman who cleans the house here, gives cooking lessons.  Someone has to go with her in the morning to the market to buy the stuff (Chris did that.)  Then we all chip in for the ingredients and to pay Leila.  Last night's lesson and dinner cost $8 each and there are leftovers to eat tonight (but I think we are going to go out for fried fish instead.)  We made onion bread.  We all kneaded the bread and chopped onions.  Then, you fold the bread around the onions and fry it.  (Everything here has lots of olive oil.)  Jeremie is able to flip them with the pan like a crepe, but I needed a spatula.  The Moroccan soup turned out to be split pea soup - minus the ham of course.  It was okay, but I'm just not a big fan of pea soup.  Nicole took some photos of us cooking.  If she posts them on Facebook, I'll copy them and add them here.

Since I have been here it has only rained one day until today.  I really like the chance to get warm in the sun in the afternoon, but Morocco is in a drought.  The farmers are worried about their wheat.  Two weeks ago, the king directed the mosques to pray for rain.  I think they have been praying for rain every Friday since then.  I even saw on the website for the Catholic diocese of Rabat that they have a prayer for rain, too.  It has a picture with umbrellas falling from the sky (without Mary Poppins)
http://www.dioceserabat.org/
So, today, the skies were a little gray and five of us decided to go for a walk after lunch and explore a part of Ville Nouvelle that we hadn't really seen.  When we had been walking for about 15 minutes, it started to seriously rain.  We went in a cafe for a while, then came out when it stopped raining,  Of course it started pouring again as we walked home.  We got totally soaked.  My clothes are hanging from the railing on the stairs.  Pierce's shoes got totally soaked, too.  At least, my shoes miraculously stayed dry.  The sidewalks here get very slippery when it rains.  They seem to be made with ceramic tiles.



Friday, January 27, 2012

Win a Three Night Stay in a Riad in Marrakech

Here's a link to win a 3 night stay in a gorgeous riad in Marrakech.  Unfortunately, I don't think it includes planefare, which is the most expensive part for those of us who live in the US.
http://africageographic.com/safari/blog/competitions/win-a-3-night-stay-in-a-luxury-marrakech-riad/
The answer to the question about the BBC program is "Eating in the Sun"




Sunday, January 22, 2012

The Alif Villa

I had planned to go to the desert this weekend.  It looked like a fantastic trip.  You get to eat delicious food, sleep in a Berber tent, watch the sunset over the sand dunes and ride a camel.  Unfortunately, you have to cross the mountains to get there and the road is currently impassable because of snow.  So, I'm going to write about the residence where I am living.
Alif (my school) has a villa around the corner where students can rent rooms.  Currently, there are about 12 of us living here.  In front of the house is a lovely garden - with irises growing in January - and a sunny porch where we can do work in the afternoon (nice and warm)




We have a shared kitchen where we often cook together.  There is a small room off the kitchen with a table where about 3 - 4 people can sit and eat.  It has a microwave and toaster oven.  There is another room off the kitchen with computers and a table.  In front of that is the living room (I have already posted pictures of that) and in the other directions is my room and Stephan's room.
kitchen:







Upstairs, there are more bedrooms and the showers.  Down in the basement, there are more bedrooms and the washing machine.  (I didn't take any pictures in the basement.)
shower:

This last picture is the roof.  We hang our clothes to dry in the sun and sometimes we study up there in the afternoon.  And for all this, I pay $10 per night.

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Chefchaouen

We left yesterday (Saturday) morning for Chefchaouen.  It's a four hour bus ride.  The bus was very nice (heated!) and it stopped at a restaurant at the half-way point.  There was a woman selling Moroccan pancakes with honey  Valeria and I split one.  We got to Chefchaouen around noon.  We found a cheap and fairly nice hotel.  Valeria and I shared a room.  There were two bathrooms on that floor, but the shower was icy cold along with the room (2 blankets helped).  We did quite a bit of climbing.  Chefchaouen is in the Rif mountains.  Its name means horns in Berber because of the shape of the mountains behind it.  It was founded by Jews in 1471 when they were fleeing Spain.  Now all the Jews have gone to New York and Israel (according to a Moroccan carpet merchant).  The buildings are all painted blue.  Apparently, they were originally painted blue by the Jews because of something in the bible, but Nathan's explanation (one of my traveling companions) was that perhaps one day they were all sitting around stoned on hashish and said, "Hey, let's paint the whole town blue."  Anyway, it is very interesting to look at.  It's a maze of little streets.  They are all paved with cobblestones and painted blue.  None of the streets in the center of town are wide enough for even a mini-cooper.  They are also quite steep.  Kids run up and down them and I kept wondering how many skinned knees they end up with.  We did lots of climbing.  Everywhere you go, you can climb up and see a beautiful view.  Also, it's very close to Tangier and Spain, so lots of Spanish tourists come there during the summer.  We would ask questions in French and people would answer us in Spanish. 
 I bought two berber carpets!  They are being shipped.

1: our bus   2: our hotel  3: a street with kids playing   4: man in bus station (LOTS of Berbers wearing jelabas with hoods up here)   5: a little shop






Saturday, January 14, 2012

Cheeseburgers!

We had our first quiz this morning - pretty hard.  I wouldn't call it a quiz.  I'd call it a unit test.  Anyway, it's good - keeps me studying.
This evening, we grilled burgers.  Peter thought he would need to buy a hibachi, but Leila (the woman who works in the house - cleaning, etc) said we had a barbecue.  It turned out there was a big one in the side garden.  None of us had ever gone there.  Leila cleaned it out for us and showed Stephan where to buy charcoal.  There's no lighter fluid and people were worried that we wouldn't be able to light the charcoal.  It's real charcoal - bits of wood in variable sizes.  Fortunately, I remembered that Ganam used to start charcoal on the gas stove in the kitchen because he didn't like the chemicals in the lighter fluid.  So, we placed small piles on the stove, started them and then transferred them to the barbecue.  It was very successful.  We even had buns, ketchup and Vache Qui Rit cheddar cheese (surprisingly good!)
Some of the others left at 10:00 to go to a bar.  I declined.  I need to get ready to leave tomorrow.  We need to get a taxi at 6:30 and get to the bus station at 7:00.  I won't be taking my computer with me, so the next time I'll be in touch is Sunday night.  I will take the Moroccan cell phone and my ipod touch in case they have wireless internet (which seems to be more common in Morocco than in the US!)

Barbecue pics:


Friday, January 13, 2012

Thursday - remember I'm 5 hours ahead of you

So, Lemore said enjoy the Italian dinner because you guys are at happy hour, but we had our Italian dinner tonight - Thursday.  Danny and Peter made pasta with merguez (little sausages) and vegetables.  They also had some very tasty croutons in it.  Tomorrow night - still ahead of my happy hour buddies - Danny and Peter are planning to grill on the roof.  They are going to Marjane tomorrow to attempt to buy a hibachi.  They want to grill burgers! (Probably not cheeseburgers because Danny and Peter are Jewish, but I haven't asked them how kosher they are since there's no pork here.)  We'll see if it happens.  (MacDonalds is walking distance if we need it.)
Four (maybe 6?) of us are going to Chefchaouen this weekend.  It's supposed to be very beautiful.  We've gone through lots of debates on how and when to go.  There are no classes on Friday afternoons, but there are also no buses at that time.  It's possible to hire a grand taxi to take you there anytime you want (four hour drive), but it's expensive.  I think our final decision is to take the bus on Saturday morning.  I like that plan because then I could do all my weekend homework on Friday afternoon and leave town knowing all my work is done for Monday.  Chefchaouen is supposed to be very beautiful.  I'll try to post pictures.  So, if I leave Saturday morning, I probably won't bring my computer with me.  I'll post pictures when I get back to Fez.